Standing tall on the Malte Brun Range, east of the Main Divide, Malte Brun (3,199m) is an imposing fortress of warm, red sandstone. While others are fixated on the ice and snow of the Divide, the savvy climber looks here. It’s a true hidden treasure—offering some of the finest, most aesthetic alpine rock mountaineering in the Southern Alps.
The Perfect Late-Season Objective
As the summer heat kicks in and the big glaciated faces begin to go out of condition, Malte Brun truly comes into its own. From December through April, once the rock is stripped clean of snow, the peak offers reliable, high-quality climbing. It’s the ultimate late-season alternative to Aoraki/Mount Cook—a massive 3,000m objective that rewards those who thrive on quality rock and spectacular exposure.
Following in the footsteps of legendary pioneer Tom Fyfe (1894), we typically target the North or West Ridges. These lines offer a superb variety of movement and a summit vista that’s hard to beat—looking directly across at the Aoraki massif and down to the turquoise lakes of the Mackenzie Basin.
Best Timing: January onwards is the sweet spot for dry rock.
The Style: After the glaciated approach, it's pure alpine rock. We tailor the route to the conditions and your experience, ensuring a fast, fluid ascent on one of the Park's most iconic silhouettes.
Why Malte? It’s a "climber’s peak"—technical, majestic, and often overlooked by the crowds.
West Ridge, NZ Grade 3:
The most commonly guided routes on Malte Brun peak are variations of the West Ridge and North to Northwest Face. The ascent day is a long one, usually taking 10-14 hours to return from your campsite. The height gain from the high bivouac (at 2,400 metres) is 800 metres. The total vertical climb is around 1,600 metres.
Day 1: After flying to the upper Tasman Glacier, we either spend the first night in a hut, or take our gear closer to the mountain and establish a base camp.
Day 2: This will be a revising of skills and reconnoitring the best approach with current conditions.
Day 3: High bivouac.The day before the ascent we move into place for a high camp/bivouac near the base of the North Face, or at the top of the Bonney Glacier (around 2,400 metres) ready for an early start.
Day 4: Summit attempt. We take a route either up a buttress to the right-hand side of the North Face, or a variation of the face. This meets up with the West Ridge just below the iconic “Cheval” - a knife-edge ridge section, with amazing exposure and vistas. From here there is about 200 metres more airtime, ridge climbing to the summit.
The descent is by the same route, abseiling the buttress. The descent requires concentration and good ropework.
Day 5 offers another attempt, and a day to work around the weather, before exiting on day 6.
NZ $10,695 per person
Contact us to check availability.
Your guiding package includes:
Malte Brun is a true “mountaineers’ mountain”
You need a solid skill-set of basic mountaineering knowledge, and to be good on rock. Experience in glaciated travel is an advantage. Expect crevassed glaciated approaches and exit.
Prerequisites:
As there are no nearby huts, Malte Brun requires a tent camp and/or bivouac for at least 2 nights. This entails heavier pack load carrying, with the additional gear needed (loads of up to 15 to 20kg).
If you have questions about the experience required, please contact us.
Alternative Climbing Options
Flexibility of goals is important. After you book we will keep you well informed if mountain conditions change enough that a climb is not possible. If snow conditions, weather, level of ability, or fitness preclude an ascent with an acceptable safety margin, your guide will recommend an alternative venue for your trip.
There are many spectacular ascents in the region. The following list is a few:
It is not possible to cancel your booking for a refund due to changing route conditions.
Special Booking Conditions:
These special conditions are in addition to our standard booking terms and conditions:
A period of 6 days is covered in the cost, even though the climb may be completed in only 4-5 days.
