3 Day | NZ Grage 2+ | 2,764m
Towering impressively above Mount Cook Village, The Footstool is a glaciated powerhouse sitting right on the spine of the Main Divide. While it’s within "walking distance" of the pub, don’t let the proximity fool you! This is a big-mountain mission with almost 1,700 metres of vertical gain from the valley floor.
The Footstool is no pushover. It’s a technical mission that requires solid crampon work, and a confident head for glacier travel. It is the perfect consolidation trip for "graduates" of our Alpine Skills Course, or an ideal early-season objective for fit climbers looking to bag a classic Main Divide peak before the summer heat arrives.
The Route: We navigate the complex ice of the Taewaewae (Stocking) and Eugenie Glaciers, navigating through serious crevasse fields to reach the Main Divide.
The Summit Ridge: The final push follows the exposed Main Divide ridge to a summit that offers one of the best "sea-to-sky" vistas in the park—looking west to the Tasman Sea and east across the vast Mackenzie Basin.
The Strategy: We allow 3 days for this climb. This gives us a day oftactical flexibility, to work around the Southern Alps' changeable weather and wait for the perfect window.
Resting at 1,660 metres, Sefton Bivouac, built in 1917, is the oldest standing structure in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park.
The hike, just to the bivy, offers stunning scenery throughout the entire ascent. From the Hooker Valley floor, a vague route leads across stream beds to a zigzagging approach up and over rocky outcrops and snowgrass, before reaching the rocky plateau around the bivvy site. The height gain to the 'Biv is almost 1,000 metres, and around 4 hours of strenuous uphill effort.
Sefton Biv is a simple shelter with a drinking water tank, mountain hut radio, mattresses, and an outside loo. A loo with a serious view!
We will carry sleeping mats and sleeping bags, a cooker, stove, and utensils, as required. The hut is available on a first-come-first-served basis. With only 4 sleeping spaces, the hut may fill if another party arrives. Fortunately, the original Sefton Bivouac - a huge rock - is still on site. This provides shelter for another 6 climbers.
From here, we break out the sharp stuff and glacier travel gear. You have another 1,100 m of vertical to reach the summit of the Footstool.
The Footstool is a serious challenge. We’re looking for fit climbers with some mileage to back it up. You need to be comfortable on your feet—moving smoothly and efficiently with crampons and two ice tools through complex glaciated terrain, and areas of objective hazard.
This isn't a place for the uninitiated; we expect guests to have a background in general mountaineering, including glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and the ability to efficiently manage snow anchors and belay stations.
If you’ve recently done an Alpine Skills Course and are looking to put those skills to the test on a long, physical summit day, this is your peak.
Recommended Season: October to November
The route on Footstool is affected by crevasses and bergschrunds in the Eugenie Glacier. The route normally becomes cut off during December, but conditions each season vary.
Experienced winter alpinists may consider a late September/October mission with ski touring/split-boarding gear, for an epic and rapid descent.
Feel free to contact us about route conditions prior to placing your booking.
Hazards:
Climbing the Footstool is not without hazards, both direct and objective. The rock in this area of the Main Divide is highly fractured and prone to rockfall during mild and thaw conditions. Care must be taken, and the guides’ decision on a summit attempt, around conditions, is final.
Weather Contingency
A weather "contingency day" is included at no cost to you. This allows us to delay the start date of the trip by a full day, to give more flexibility around the weather. We will contact you to discuss details if this is needed.
Booking a Climb
This trip is on request. Please contact us with your proposed dates.
Bookings are subject to guide availability.
