Technical Mountaineering Course (tmc)
The TMC is Alpine Guides’ advanced mountaineering course. Join us to develop and fine-tune your technical climbing skills. We focus on the most current techniques to enable you to explore any mountain range on Earth.
At 10 days the course allows for a complete immersion in the mountains and time to experience and adapt to changing weather and mountain conditions. Aside from new skills, we aim to climb 2 or 3 summits.
You will climb with coaching and guidance from a professional mountain guide. A maximum of 4 climbers per guide allows for challenging ascents with personalised instruction. Rather than following explicit instructions, your guide will coach you as you climb peaks and routes in glaciated terrain. You will gain experience and confidence on snow, ice, and rock.
We focus on encouraging problem-solving, advanced technical rope skills, and strategies for independent climbing. The low guide-to-guest ratio ensures you have close attention and opportunities to lead, with supervision.
Your time in the mountains is valuable, that’s why the focus of our TMC is to learn while climbing. Possibilities for climbs and summits may include Mt Green, Mt Hamilton, The Minarets, Lendenfeld Peak, Mt Abel, Elie De Beaumont, and others.
Experience & Learnings
Experience Required
Previous experience in mountaineering in glaciated terrain is essential. This should at least be similar to the level of completion of the Alpine Skills Course (ASC).
Additional mileage in the mountains is preferred.
A background in rock climbing is required.
Some skills will be revised early in the course, but it is important that you have the requisite experience and a high level of aerobic fitness.
Prior to this course, you should be able to:
Rope-up for glacier travel
Demonstrate self-rescue from a crevasse
Climb sustained 40º to 50º ice or mixed terrain using two tools
Build simple anchors on rock, snow, and ice, and belay a partner
Abseil with confidence
Confidently second on multi-pitch rock, to at least AU grade 15
Move with crampons and ice-axe over a variety of terrain
Be willing to adapt and progress in a team environment
A high level of aerobic fitness is required. You must be able to carry an 8 kg backpack 1,000 vertical metres in 3.5 hours.
Read more about fitness for mountaineering.
Unsure of your experience? Please contact us directly to discuss your experience before booking if you are uncertain of meeting the minimum requirements. We will advise on a case-by-case basis.
What you will learn
Revision of key mountaineering skills
Fine-tune glacier travel and crevasse rescue systems
Snow, ice, and rock climbing, single and multi-pitch
Anchor building and rope work in the alpine
Navigation, route finding, and decision making
Emergency shelters
Weather and avalanche forecasting
Trip planning and training ideas
Schedule and Specifics
Price: $5,690 per person
The course cost Includes
Professional NZMGA/IFMGA mountain guides
All meals including snacks and energy bars
Helicopter access and egress from the mountains
Mountain Hut fees
Local accommodation, as required
Free use of a range of technical equipment
Alpine Guides’ Technical Manual
All courses start at 08:30 AM on day one and finish at 5:00 PM on the final day.
Check-in at Alpine Guides office in Mount Cook Village.
Please read our booking Terms and Conditions.
Summer 2024-25 Course Dates
| Course | Dates |
|---|---|
| TMC 1 | Closed |
| TMC 2 | 09 - 18 Dec |
| TMC 3 | 13 - 22 Jan |
| TMC 4 | 17 - 26 Feb |
| TMC 5 | 10 - 19 March |
Maximum and Minimum Bookings
Maximum Bookings: Our TMC has a maximum of 4 participants per guide.
Minimum Bookings: A minimum of 3 people is required to run each TMC to full length.
If only 2 participants are booked we run the course, but reduce the length to 7 days
If only one person has booked we cannot run the course. You can either receive a full refund or we can organise a different trip on a 1:1 basis, with an adjustment of fees. We will advise well ahead of the course start date in this case.
NZAC Discount
New Zealand Alpine Club Members can receive a 10% discount on this course.
Check with us before booking, with your membership number, and we can supply a promo code.
Example Itinerary
When operating in a dynamic mountain environment it's not realistic to have a fixed schedule. We work around prevailing weather and snow conditions to make the best use of our time and cover all of the instruction topics comprehensively. This makes each TMC unique.
Day One and 2
On the first morning you will meet the team and work with your guide to make a plan - looking at weather, conditions, and goals. Check and pack food and equipment. Rental equipment will be issued, as required.
We will try to fly into the mountains early on the first afternoon. Expect to be in the mountains for up to 8 nights of the course. When you arrive in the mountains, you will probably need to rope up for glacier travel and haul your gear and food to the hut. Your guide will introduce you to your mountain abode and provide a refresher on hut etiquette and management.
Your first 2 days will typically focus on reviewing and solidifying core mountaineering skills; movement, crampon, self-arrest, anchor theory, and familiarisation with the area.
Day 3-10
The focus of the TMC is to 'learn by doing'. We will work to best use the weather and conditions to get out climbing. Any weather days will be used to cover theory topics such as weather, avalanche, navigation, and rope skills.
Each day will have an objective that best suits the conditions, weather, and learning pathways of the group. Course participants will take part in planning and preparation for the day's objective. The guide will assist in the role of mentor and safety/technical advisor. The guide may also take an active leadership role, as required.
As you progress the focus will shift to more complex terrain and refining rope and anchor skills.
Ice climbing on glacial seracs and crevasse rescue are excellent opportunities to fine-tune your skills and receive feedback on technique from your guide. We aim to spend at least half a day on each of these training activities.
As an advanced course, there will be variations in the content which is covered. Conditions and the specific skills of participants will shape the program. We work hard to ensure that participants have the required skills and experience and we focus on making sure that everyone has a good understanding of the topics which are covered.
Your days will begin at around 07:00. Some of your climbing days may require an 'alpine start' - as early as 03:00. In this case, you will finish the day earlier. Expect to be out for 8 to 10 hours most days.
We aim to be back in Aoraki Mount Cook Village on day 9 for a revision of course topics, return gear and debrief - with the potential for a visit to the local crag if time allows.
Aircraft And HUts
Aircraft Use
We fly in and out from your mountain venue, by helicopter. The price is included in the course fees.
This avoids an arduous 2-day walk-in (and 1 to 1.5-day walk-out) and more importantly, it maximises your climbing and training opportunities.
Mountain Huts
The TMC can be run from several venues. Your guide will choose the best location based on mountain conditions and the forecast weather for your trip.
Tasman Saddle
A classic venue at the top of our largest glacier, this is where most TMCs are based. Arguably, this is NZ’s best alpine training ground.
Peaks include Mount Green (2,837 m), Mount Walter (2,905 m), Hochstetter Dome (2,810 m), Mt Annan (2,934 m) and others. Tasman Saddle is just to the east of the Main Divide, usually offering more settled weather than the neighbouring West Coast.
Pioneer Hut
Another amazing venue that we will visit with a favourable weather window. Ioneer Hut is located in the Fox Glacier névé, West of the Main Divide, with multiple peaks from grades 1+ to 3 within close proximity.
A 25% deposit is required to secure your booking
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Alpine Skills Course
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