Alpine Guides’ Heritage

AGL guides circa 1993. From left to right: Dave Crow, John Roberts (JR), Anton Woperies, Gerry Kennedy, Bill Atkinson, Andy Harold, Dave (Spoon) McCloud, Kem Johnson, Matt Wilkinson, Marty Beare, Russell Braddock, Brede Arkless, John MacNamee, and Gary Dickson.

The age of mountain guiding at Mount Cook began with the establishment of the first Hermitage Hotel in 1890, and reached its peak between the world wars.

The profession all but expired after WW2. Demand fell as belts were tightened. New Zealand, through post-war austerity and necessity, became a DIY nation. Most training, if there was any, became the territory of the mountain clubs…

In 1953 the former Hermitage Chief Guide, Harry Ayres, became the first Chief Ranger of the very new Mount Cook National Park. As a result, former guides were suddenly government employees and professional guiding ceased for some time.

Ed Hillary and Harry Ayres on the summit during Hillary’s first ascent of Aoraki Mount Cook, 30 January 1947. Image thanks to Aoraki Mount Cook Museum Trust.

Alpine Instuction Ltd

In the early 1960s, a number of accidents involving overseas climbers of “questionable experience” prompted a re-think of the need for high-level instruction in mountaineering, specifically for the unique conditions of Aoraki Mount Cook.

In 1966 three young Christchurch-based mountaineers, Lynn Crawford, Peter Farrell and Bruce Jenkinson, as well as Australian Geoff Wyatt, realised there was a niche for professional mountain tuition. They founded Alpine Instruction Ltd to “rekindle” the golden age of professional guiding.

The first trip was from the 6th to the 10th of December 1966. Aat Vervoorn guided Peter Wagner to Tasman Saddle, with an ascent of Hochstetter Dome, and “7/8ths of Elie de Beaumont”.

Alpine Instruction boasted the names of legendary guides Mick Bowie and Harry Ayres, and also Edmund Hillary on their list of “reputable, expert advisors”. The guides ranged widely from Mount Cook to the West Coast, with climbers, skiers, and even hunters as guests. Many of their missions would not at all be possible in our more regulated times…

Mount Cook to “Aoraki” 1971 to 2000

Avalanche safety “master”, Dave McNulty, with Joss Lang, sheer testing, mid 1980’s.

As instruction widened into guiding, the business became Alpine Guides (Mount Cook) Ltd in 1971 and was subsequently owned by larger businesses, until being bought by guides Bryan Carter and Kevin Boekholt in 2000 – forming Alpine Guides (Aoraki) Ltd.

More than a half-century later, Alpine Guides has seen the establishment of Aoraki Mount Cook National Park, the NZ Guides Association becoming affiliated with the IFMGA, and many other NZ guiding outfits have come and gone.

These days the effects of climate change are biting ever deeper into our precious glaciated landscape. This is probably the biggest challenge we face going into the 21st Century.

A late 1980s promo video directed and filmed by acclaimed NZ cameraman Michael Single. Featuring a young Nick Craddock, with AGL Operations Manager, Bob Munro.

Bryan and Joss

Bryan and Joss in the field with Mt Cook Heliski , Ben Ohau range, September 1985.
Early 90s

Outside the AGL base, still a gravel car park.
From L to R, Guy Cotter, John McNamee, Kevin Boekholt, Pete Brailsford, Shaun Norman, Kem Johnson, Hiro Yanagisawa, Charlie Hobbs, Bill Atkinson, Mike Roberts, Bryan Carter, Bob Munro.
1996-97

During staff training summer of 1996-97, in front of a Mount Cook Group BK-117.
From L to R Tarn Pilkington, Gary Dickson, Anton Woperies, Shaun Norman, Anne Palmer, Bill Atkinson, Rachel Brown (behind Bill), Ray Button (behind Rachel), Dave Hiddleston (sitting), Whitney Thurlow, Sam Bosshard, Kevin Nicholas, Trev Streat, Brede Arkless, Kiersten Price, Paul Aubrey, Dean Staples.
2007

Pre-winter staff training. From L to R, Trev Streat, Jo Haines, Roy Smith, Bryan Carter, Bill Atkinson, Dave McKinley, Kevin Boekholt, Jonny Morgan, Jamie Robertson, Danny Baillie, Tony Donaldson.
Winter 2010

Ski guides training at Glenfalloch Station, winter 2010.
L to R, Philip Todhunter, Trev Streat, Al Moore, Sean Brooks, Gary Keuhn, Dave McKinley, Jamie Robertson, Laura Adams, Ben Taylor (front), Sam Bosshard, Paula Roberts, Mal Haskins, Roy Hawthorne, Andy Tindall, Kevin Boekholt.
Summer 2015

At summer training outside our temporary base at House One, Mt Cook Village.
From L to R, Lewis Ainsworth, Tai Naka, Arthur McBride, Merrie-Beth Board, Dave Alderson, Dave McKinley (rear), Jane Morris, Abby Watkins, James Madden, Jamie Robertson (rear), Anna Loomes, Dani Mello, Bill Atkinson, Kevin Boekholt.

A Reputation For Excellence

From its inception, AGL established a reputation for high standards and industry-leading practice. It fought hard to raise training levels and establish standards consistent with international levels.

We began ski guiding in the mid-1970s, with heliskiing now a major recreational industry in NZ.

Today, we are more diverse than ever, but mountain guiding is still the core of our business.

We should acknowledge the trust and experience earned through generations of profound, thoughtful dedication to safety and professionalism. In these times of rapid change, experience is a rare commodity that should be embraced.