Expedition Training Course

When dealing with the dynamic mountain environment we work around prevailing weather and snow conditions, to provide the most comprehensive coverage of all course topics. We reserve the right to modify this schedule to make the best use of the weather and conditions at the time.

Day 1 - Planning. Set up. Fly in.

After meeting your guide the first part of the day involves a comprehensive gear check and organisation of equipment and clothing. Food, tents, cooking equipment, ropes and technical equipment need to be prepared for flying in.

We will establish a formal trip plan, and discuss things like weather, time, distances, camp locations, and the general strategy for the coming days, just as a group would on an expedition climb.

After lunch, if weather permits, we will fly deep into the Southern Alps to your base camp location on the upper Tasman Glacier. Given the right weather conditions, we will set up an expedition-style BC ("Base Camp") using tents and/or snow caves/natural shelter features.

If the weather is considered too limiting for learning progression, we may spend some time based out of alpine huts.

Day 2 - Camping Skills

Today we work on camp-fortifying techniques and building snow and/or block walls. On general expeditions, we use a group cook tent, which must be dug into the snow and set up at each camp as we work our way up the mountain.

Being able to efficiently and effectively dig in and reinforce camps on any expedition is extremely important to the group's safety and success. No detail is spared in covering these methods.

Group camping and cooking etiquette are put into practice. Camp duties will be assigned on a rotational basis. We will plan on moving camp at least two times on this course, to gain experience with establishing camp in different locations.

Day 3 - Climbing and Mountaineering Skills 1

Today we work on snow skills - ice axe and crampon use, and glacier travel. Snow conditions will dictate much of what training is possible. Potentially deep and soft snow conditions can make skills practice challenging. Climbers tend to wade rather than climb in these conditions.

If self-arrest and cramponing practice are not possible, we will cover more in-depth avalanche assessment scenarios. Some of the topics we cover will be:

• Understanding mountain weather

• Navigation and route finding

• High altitude physiology and the acclimatization process

• Avalanche awareness

• Sled rigging.

Day 4 - Climbing and Mountaineering Skills 2

Today we use the east ridge of Mount Aylmer (2,699 m) to learn to move efficiently through a route protected by fixed lines and fixed protection. This is important for maintaining our schedule and maximising summit days on the upper mountain. We will spend the majority of this day practicing passing snow stakes/pickets, running protection, and ascending fixed lines as a rope team.

Day 5 - Crevasse Rescue Day

This involves crevasse rescue and group rescue scenarios. Crevasse rescue methods on expeditions are often different than on other mountain situations, because of:

• The unique nature and size of the rope teams

• The heavy backpacks and sleds each member has to tow

• We will practice scenarios for individual and group rescue, as they relate to crevasse falls.

Day 6: Climbing and Mountaineering Skills 3

Conditions in the mountains can be demanding and diverse. We will likely employ a number of techniques, from snowshoeing to cramponing, as we try to ascend as high as the weather and conditions will allow. Either, climbing Elie De Beaumont (3,109 m) or Hochstetter Dome (2,827 m) will be attempted, after an alpine start.

We will then descend, pack up our camp, and fly back to Mount Cook Village. We finish up with a summary session before ending the course at 5.00 pm.