For most trips choose a crampon for general-purpose mountaineering. These should have 10 or ideally 12 points - which include moderate to aggressive front points.

We recommend a crampon with a strap system on the toes, rather than a metal toe bail. Built-in anti-balling plates are ideal for general mountaineering in NZ. For example; Grivel G12, Petzl Vasak, Black Diamond Sabretooth, or similar.

Avoid specialised ice climbing crampons for general alpine mountaineering. These crampons can "ball up" badly with wet snow.

Strap-on crampons work well with snowboarding or non-rigid boots.

General Alpine Mountaineering Axes

A "straight shafted" mountaineering axe (55-65 cm) is appropriate for most climbing trips and instruction courses. The axe should have about 10cm ground clearance when held at your side.

The ideal length depends on your height, and the nature of the trip. These tools are best for “moderate" terrain, trips including glacier travel, and mixed climbing.

Look for an axe with a shaft without excessive rubber padding. This makes the axe easier to push into the snow for anchor placement.

We recommend choosing an axe marked with "T" (for "technical") - these are rated for use in anchor systems.

Technical Ice Axes

These specialised shorter axes are designed for technical alpine routes and water-ice climbing. They have aggressively angled picks and often have bent shafts. Shaft length varies around 40-50 cm.

Your hammer is used for placing snow and ice protection, and when climbing with "two tools" on steeper pitches.

This is a shorter tool than the ice axe, generally around 45-55 cm. A curved and aggressive pick shape is standard.

Both straight and curved shafted hammers have their place. Curved shafts protect the hands when ice climbing, but are not as efficient for hammering in snow anchors as straight-shafted tools.

Ice screws vary in length from 12 to about 22 cm. Modern steel screw-in/screw-outs are best.

Winders are great for quickly placing and removing protection. For general alpine mountaineering carry at least 2 ice screws per person.

We recommend screws are at least 17 cm in length.

Snow stakes are used in anchor systems. There are 2 main options for the NZ snowpack: the 60 cm long aluminum angled "V" shaped or "T" shaped stakes.

V-shaped stakes perform better in a softer snowpack. T-shaped are better in a firmer snowpack (mid to late-summer)

A modern plastic climbing helmet will protect your head in the event of a fall, or more often, and specifically, from objects falling on your head. They have a limited life span due to UV degradation.

Your climbing harness should be lightweight with adjustable leg loops.

Avoid heavily padded models specifically for rock climbing (especially with fixed leg loops).

Your harness needs to fit when you are wearing your storm gear (jacket and over-trousers). Choose a harness with plenty of gear loops.

We recommend the ATC-Guide from Black Diamond. This has a regular and high friction mode, great holding power and lowering capabilities. It also has auto-locking mode which is great for belaying directly off your anchor, or for use as an auto-block in rescue situations.

Locking carabiners should be large pear-shaped, ideally with a screwgate. Snap-locks for general mountaineering should be “D” shaped, with a straight gate.

In general alpine climbing situations, your guide will carry a small rack, but you are welcome to bring your own gear. At most bring 3 or 4 wires, and 1 or 2 small to medium cramming devices.

Slings

You need at least 2 slings:

• “Long sling" is approx 4 metres before tying off

• “Short sling" is approx 3 metres before tying off

We use 16 to 20 mm width tubular tape in our rental stock. This resists abrasion well, especially when anchoring/belaying off the alpine rock. If you bring your own slings (especially pre-stitched slings) 12mm tape will suffice. These should be rated to 22KN or better.

Prusiks

Prusiks are 5-6 mm width nylon kernmantle cord or spectra. We recommend carrying 2 short and one long prusik for most situations.

• A short prusik loop is "nose to navel" length when tied

• A long prusik "navel to the ground" when tied