Mount Aspiring Expedition
Difficulty
Duration
5 Days
Season
October to April
Gearlist
PRICE from $7,550 NZD
Mount Aspiring (3,033 metres) is 180 km southwest of Aoraki Mount Cook, in Mount Aspiring National Park. It is the highest peak in the region, rising 2,500 meters from the Matukituki Valley floor.
Known in te reo Māori as Tititea, the "glistening one", Mt Aspiring is often called the "Matterhorn of the Southern Alps", and when viewed from the west looks particularly impressive. It is a "classic" horned peak, standing high above the others in the region.
Alpine Guides 5-day Mt Aspiring guided mountaineering expedition can be attempted by climbers with some climbing experience, via the North West Ridge (normal route). The classic SW Ridge offers a challenge for the more experienced alpinist.
Inclusions and Specifics
Price: NZ$7,550 per person
The package includes:
Professional Mountain Guide
Cost of helicopter access to Bevan Col
All meals including snacks and energy bars
Hut fees, and Wanaka Accommodation as required (inside trip dates)
Free use of a range of technical gear
Alpine Guides Technical Manual
NOT Included:
Cost of flight out - if required
Walk-in option
Price: NZ$8,795 per person
You can skip a helicopter flight and book a full walk-in and walk-out 7-day trip. Choose a walk-in option on the booking screen.
Meet your guide in Wanaka
Please read our booking Terms and Conditions.
How to book:
Please contact us with your proposed dates. All reservations are subject to guide availability.
Meeting your guide at Wanaka
Lake Wanaka and access to the Mount Aspiring region is 2 hours drive south of our base at Mount Cook. We will arrange a meeting place and time with your guide. Usually at your accommodation in Wanaka.
Important: if you need to rent or borrow Alpine Guides equipment you must advise us in advance. Your guide will bring the equipment you need.
Accommodation options in Wanaka.
Your guide will help organise your equipment at the start of your trip. This takes an average up to 2 hours. After an initial outline of the program and equipment check, you fly into the mountains at the first possible opportunity.
Special Booking Conditions
These special conditions are in addition to our standard booking terms and conditions.
A period of 5 days is covered in the cost, even though the summit may be reached in less time. You have the option of retaining your guide and completing another climb or returning to Wanaka. No refund is due if you choose to finish early.
Extensions to the 5 days may be possible (depending on your guide’s work commitments) - this will be an additional cost of NZ$925 per day, which includes food and hut fees.
If the period is involuntarily extended, the cost is an additional NZ$795 per day.
Experience Required and Hazards
North West Ridge Route
For the Northwest Ridge Route, we can guide participants with alpine climbing skills - approximately at the level of our Alpine Skills Course (ASC). A high level of fitness is also required.
Prerequisites - North West Ridge at 1:1 ratio:
At least 5 days of crampon experience, including 30º to 35º snow/ice
Competence on rock - seconding to AU 14 or US 5.7
Confidence scrambling with exposure
Ascents of 2 or 3 peaks involving some exposure (NZ Alpine 1+ to 2+)
High level of aerobic fitness - able to carry an 8 kg backpack 1,000 vertical metres in 3 hours.
South West Ridge Route
On South West Ridge we will guide experienced climbers, those who have climbing experience similar to our Technical Mountaineering Course (TMC), in addition to other alpine climbing.
Prerequisites - South West Ridge at 1:1 ratio:
At least 10 days on crampons within the past 2 years
Experience climbing with 2 tools on 45º to 50º snow and ice
Experience of several 16-20 hour days on alpine ascents (NZ Alpine 1+ to 3)
Competence on rock - seconding to Australian 16, or US 5.8
High level of aerobic fitness - able to carry an 8 kg backpack 1,000 vertical metres in 2.5 hours
Hazards
Mountaineering on Mount Aspiring in the summer months has a relatively low objective hazard. The guide’s primary concern will always be safety. Decisions on route feasibility and conditions will always be based on this.
route descriptions
North West Ridge Route
Maximum guide to participant ratio: 1 to 1
NZ Alpine Grade: 2+
Season: October to April
The North West ridge is the most commonly guided route on Mount Aspiring. The climb takes 10 to 12 hours return, from Colin Todd Hut (1,220 metres).
The lower section of the mountain can be climbed either by “The Ramp” - pitched climbing up 40° snow; or up the Shipowner Ridge on mixed snow and rock (more rock as the season progresses).
The upper part of the mountain is climbed via the North West Ridge. This involves moderate snow and ice up to the summit. Your guide will usually short-rope you up on this, depending on conditions.
The descent is via the same route. It requires concentration and good crampon technique.
South West Ridge Route
Maximum guide to participant ratio: 1 to 1
NZ Alpine Grade: 3+
Season: October to January
Regarded as one of New Zealand’s classic ascents, the SW ridge is a challenging climbing mission for more experienced alpinists.
Access to the ridge is via the Bonar Glacier. We will normally bivouac high on the glacier (at about 2,200 metres) before the climb.
At a point, about 150 metres below the summit, the South West Ridge runs into a steep couloir. This exposed section is climbed with 3 pitches on 55-60° snow and ice, before joining with the NW ridge and ice cap.
Because of snow conditions in the couloir, the route is often in its best condition earlier in the season (before the end of December). The descent route is normally by the NW ridge, to Colin Todd hut. Total time is normally 12-14 hours.
aircraft and huts
Access to Colin Todd Hut
Colin Todd Hut is located at the base of the North West ridge. It is a strenuous 1.5 day walk. Flying in makes best use of your available good weather.
By using helicopter access you can maximise your energy on the mountain, and the time spent climbing. Fresh food can also be taken in to add to the enjoyment of the expedition. After flying to Bevan Col there is an 1.5 hour walk to Colin Todd Hut, across the Bonar Glacier.
Camping may sometimes be required due to the limited bed capacity at Colin Todd Hut. Alpine Guides will provide tents and other camping gear, if required.
Egress from the mountains
It is possible to fly out from Bevan Col, but the usual practice is to walk out. This can either be via the Bevan Col route (a very long day’s walk and climb over difficult terrain) or to the Quarter Deck Glacier and then down French Ridge to French Ridge Hut.
The French Ridge route can take 1.5 to 2 days and must be undertaken within the time frame of your trip. Your guide will decide which route is most suitable for the weather, snow conditions, and your fitness at the time.
Helicopter cost from Bevan Col is approx. NZ$1,200 if chartering the helicopter yourself. If other climbing parties are flying in or flying out at the same time, this cost may be significantly reduced.
Walking out
After the descent into the Matukituki Valley floor, the walk to the vehicle pickup point at Raspberry Flat takes around 5 hours.
This a pleasant hike down a river valley on a grass track - although with a sizeable pack on your back!
You may want to bring a comfortable pair of lightweight running shoes for this section of the trip.
A 25% deposit is required to secure your booking
