ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION

Route: 360 º - Vacas Valley - Ameghino Upper Valley.

We start the expedition in Mendoza, before moving to Penitentes to begin trekking through the Vacas Valley towards our Base Camp at Plaza Argentina. From Plaza Argentina, we start the ascent, travelling the first section of the Polish Route to Camp 1. From there, we cross the saddle of Ameghino Hill before continuing the ascent towards Camp 2.

From Camp 2, we climb to Camp 3 (White Rocks) through the upper part of the Guanacos Valley route and finally reach the summit, crossing the last section of the Normal Route. The descent is by the Normal Route, down to Plaza de Mulas.

Day 1 - Arrival in Mendoza

Transfer from the airport to the hotel.

Afternoon team meeting at the hotel, equipment check.

Welcome dinner for a great test of fine Argentinean cuisine and excellent wine.

Those arriving in advance for sightseeing will need to arrange their transfers and accommodation for the night prior.

Welcome dinner included. All other meals and refreshments are at your own expense.

One night of hotel accommodation is provided. Breakfast included.*

Day 2 - Mendoza - Penitentes

Transfer by van from Mendoza to Penitentes (2,700 metres). Lunch stop at Uspallata on the way. Approx. 2 hours’ drive.

At Penitentes we will go through a final gear sort into mule loads/hiking packs, etc. In the afternoon another hike is recommended, to keep on playing the altitude game…

One night accommodation in a hotel provided at Penitentes. Breakfast included.

Lunch and evening meals are at your expense.

Day 3 - Punta de Vacas (2.350 m) – Pampa de Leñas (2.950 m)

We move to Punta de Vacas, the entrance of Aconcagua Provincial Park. Permits will be checked at the Park Ranger Office. This day will involve a 4-5 hour hike to Pampa de Leñas (2,950 metres) where we camp for the night.

Day 4 – Pampa de Leñas (2.950 m) - Casa de Piedras (3.240 m)

A 6 to 7-hour hike up the long but beautiful Quebrada de Vacas Valley to our second camp at Casa de Piedras (3,240 metres). This is an arid, high alpine tundra valley.

With mules and people passing by, it can get pretty dusty. We suggest having a Buff/bandana to keep the dust and grit out of your lungs. This will be our first sight of Aconcagua. From here it is possible to get the first (and incredible) view of the east side of Aconcagua. Here we will spend our last night approaching the base camp.

Day 5 – Casa de Piedras (3.240 m) – Plaza Argentina (4.190 m)

First, we have to cross the Vacas River. Normally knee to thigh deep – but cold! If you have some US$ we may be able to ask a “Gaucho” (cowboy/mule driver) to give you a ride across.

Then we head up the Relinichos Valley, ever upwards… With beautiful views of the mountains. 5 to 7 hours later we will arrive at the advanced base camp, Plaza Argentina (4,190 metres) and the very luxurious camping and dining experience with our local support crew from Grajales Expeditions.

This is a big day, but well worth the effort. The hike to Plaza Argentina is approximately 12 km and is going to give us the perfect chance to begin the acclimatisation process.

Day 6 – Rest day Plaza Argentina B.C.

At Plaza Argentina, we will rest and use the day to acclimatise to the altitude. The most effective way to do this is to take time to become accustomed to the low-oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp. This is an excellent method of acclimatisation.

This is a good time to get to know the base camp, take a shower and explore the area. Together with your guide, you will get your mandatory medical check-up, and then we will reorganise and review the equipment and prepare the loads we will carry the next day.

Day 7 - Carry day from Plaza Argentina B.C. to Camp 1 (5,100 metres)

Over the next couple of days, we are gradually adapting to the altitude. We will carry part of our equipment and food so that our backpacks are as light as possible. Then we will return to Plaza Argentina. 4-5 hours.

Day 8 – Rest Day at Plaza Argentina B.C.

A day to recover energy, rest, hydrate and eat well.

Day 9 – Move up from B.C. to Camp 1 (5,100 metres)

We begin the ascent to Camp 1 taking the first part of the Polish Route. After 5 to 6 hours of walking through easy terrain, we will reach Camp 1 (5,100 metres). Here we will find the gear we left the day before. We will set up our tents and then divide the loads that will be transferred to Camp 2 the following day.

Day 10 - Carry day equipment from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,600 metres)

We continue our gradual acclimatisation to altitude. During the gear carry to Camp 2, we will reach an altitude of 5,600 metres. This is a long day, about 5-6 hours of walking. Then we return overnight to Camp 1.

Day 11 - Rest day at Camp 1 (5,100 metres)

Today we are focused on improving our acclimatisation process. Your guide may propose different activities, depending on the condition of the group. We will take the opportunity to rest and give our bodies more opportunity to acclimatise.

Be aware that from base camp onwards, there may be changes to the itinerary depending on the weather, the group conditions, and the acclimatisation process.

Successful expeditions have to be adaptable and flexible in their itineraries. It is possible your guide may decide to have an extra rest day at base camp, or a rest day at Camp 1 or even Camp 2, or to skip Camp 2 in some situations and move straight to Camp 3. The decisions depend on the physical and mental condition of the group, and the weather conditions. We may save a day which can be used later for a rest or a weather day at Camp 3.

Day 12 – Move day from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5.600 metres)

We begin the ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2 using the route of Ameghino Col. Here, we will find the gear we left two days before. We will set up camp and divide the loads that we will carry in the last portage to Camp 3. Rest and dinner.

Day 13 – Carry day equipment from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (White Rocks) at 6.000 metres

We continue our gradual acclimatisation to altitude. The carry to Camp 3 will be a 4-5 hour walk, ascending by easy terrain. Then we return overnight to Camp 2.

Day 14 – Rest day at Camp 2 (5,600 metres)

Another day dedicated to improving our acclimatisation process. We will take the opportunity to rest and give our bodies another opportunity to acclimatise.

Day 15 – Move day from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (White Rocks)

After breakfast and breaking down camp, we begin our ascent of about 4 hours. We will take the last part of the Guanacos Superior Valley route. Camp 3 (6,000 metres) is located a little bit higher than Berlin Refuge (by the Normal Route), strategically located to withstand high winds. We will rest to get ready for the next morning - attempting the summit.

Day 16 – SUMMIT DAY

This is the day we have been waiting for and the most demanding of our expedition. We climb the North Ridge to the old Independencia Shelter at about 6,500 metres. Then, we ascend through the “Portezuelo del Viento”. We continue through “La Canaleta”, and then get to “Filo del Guanaco”, which takes us to the last push to the summit (6,962 metres). The prize is waiting for us, a 360° view and the experience of succeeding - only appreciated once we reach the peak. Back to Camp 3.

Day 17 – Extra summit day 1

Another opportunity to summit if we have bad weather. These days are to guarantee the greatest number of opportunities to reach the summit.

Day 18 – Extra summit day 2

Another opportunity to summit if we have bad weather. These days are to guarantee the greatest number of opportunities to reach the summit.

Day 19 – Camp 3 to Plaza de Mulas (4,300 metres)

From high Camp 3 we start hiking down the other side (west) of the mountain to the 'normal' base camp at Plaza de Mulas (4,300 metres) 4-5 hours downhill. There we will enjoy a special dinner to celebrate the experience and enjoy the view of the imposing west wall of Aconcagua.

Day 20 – Plaza de Mulas – Horcones – Mendoza

A 6-7 hour hike out the Horcones Valley (29 km), with its impressive views of Aconcagua's South Face. We will arrive at Horcones Lagoon park entrance to be picked up by our transport and taken back to Mendoza, after collecting our extra gear stored at Penitentes facilities. If extra weather and acclimatisation days have not been used during the expedition we could arrive a day or two earlier to Mendoza.

One night accommodation at a hotel in Mendoza is covered. Breakfast included.

Meals and other expenses are additional.

NOTE: This proposed itinerary is subject to change due to climatic or force majeure events that may jeopardise the safety of the group. Our guides reserve the right to vary the schedule. You can be sure that any changes made are based on 2 fundamental premises: maximising safety and the chance for success. Both are based on the knowledge and experience of our guides.

Passport – make sure it is valid and (if applicable) you have a suitable visa for Argentina, and any other countries you are planning to visit. An entry visa is usually not required if you stay less than 3 months.

You must have at least 6 months left before the expiration of your passport as many countries will not let you in with less.

• Bring 3 x additional passport-sized photos in your luggage for permits, etc.

• You will need proof of your evacuation/rescue insurance for the park entry permits issued in Mendoza.

• Note that Australian/Canadian passport holders need a valid “reciprocity fee” paid

It is cheaper to book well in advance, but we strongly advise ensuring that the return section of your air travel is “flexible” - able to be changed with a small, or no fee. This helps work around unforeseen exit circumstances – either earlier, or later, than planned.

We recommend travel agents do trip planning. There is a small surcharge, but over the years we have watched friends and guests who organised all their travel go through a lot of stress and expense rearranging travel, while we make a single phone call or email…

On more than one occasion our agents have contacted us before complications arose.

Mendoza is too high for the malarial band in South America but check with your doctor about relevant immunisations for travel, especially if you are visiting more than one location on your trip.

Anyone with any medical conditions should ensure they have the appropriate medication, and that it has not expired (for instance those people who use “twice a year” Ventolin for asthma).

We recommend a full medical examination by your GP and will provide a questionnaire. It will be useful for insurance purposes and when applying for Park permits in Mendoza. Bring a copy of the results with you.

Be prepared to return via the red “something to declare” lane at customs, particularly if you are from NZ or Australia.

Before returning you should do a thorough cleaning and check, before packing. Then, write a list of all the suspect items you have: boots, tents, crampons, stoves wood or fiber souvenirs, medical items, etc.

State what you have, and how you have cleaned/stored them. When you go through the red line on arrival, hand them the list. Most frequently customs appreciate that and ask to see one item, then wave you through – usually you end up being processed much faster than the long line in the green lane.

The food on offer at the base camps is plentiful and fresh. As with most dining in Argentina, it will tend to be in the Central European style - big on the carnivorous element. The dining tents are large and comfortable with tables and chairs, plenty of snacks, and brews.

If you are vegetarian or have particular diet requirements you must let us know about this before the expedition starts.

On the mountain, we will be cooking in small groups. Mostly lighter carbs/protein and veggies of longer-lasting variety.

A few phrases in Spanish are always well-appreciated by the locals. The support crew we use generally speak some English, but outside of the big cities, most people do not.

It’s always good to know how to ask where the toilets are, or how to get a drink or food. Spanish podcast lessons are great ways to pass the time when tent-bound.

Argentina uses Pesos as currency. There are Casa de Cambio (exchanges) in Mendoza. It is useful to bring some $US in cash (other currency less frequently accepted). Have a read about the “Blue Market” online as there is an unofficial exchange rate and an official one. Our guides will get local advice when we arrive.

Although there is no prerequisite tipping culture, like the US for example, it is appreciated by the locals to receive a token of gratitude for their efforts. Certainly the porters are used to it.

You must organise your own travel insurance and insurance for emergency purposes.

Your Park entry permit will cover any required helicopter evacuation from the mountain. This is only the case when specifically authorized by the on-the-mountain doctor at Plaza Argentina or Plaza de Mulas.

Insurance is available through:

Global Rescue

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance

NZ Alpine Club (NZ residents only)

Most standard travel insurance excludes expedition-related claims – but is essential for your basic travel needs.

Once on the mountain, there is usually a requirement by the National Park services for climbers to be checked by a doctor at Plaza Argentina to ensure they are fit to continue ascent.

Bring evidence of your physical examination from your GP.

Your AGL guide(s) have VHF radio support with Grajales Expeditions and also carry a satellite phone for emergencies.

Although Aconcagua is not a super-technical mountain, it is a very strenuous endeavour, and not to be underestimated. Altitude can and does affect everyone differently.

While we will be trying to give each other the best chance for optimal acclimation, everyone will need to pay attention to what their own body is telling them - and let the guide know!

We have the ability to help with your successful ascent and acclimation, but only if we know what is going on.

Essential to a successful ascent is putting in some time to train prior to turning up. The best training you can do are long days carrying moderate to heavy packs. On at least 3- 4 of the days you will need to carry up to 20kg.

We use pulse oximeters right through the expedition. These are small medical instruments that measure the oxygen saturation level of your blood - an indication of how you are acclimatising.

We will be staying in a mix of small alpine tents (2-3 people per tent), on the way in and high on the mountain, it is possible to arrange to stay in larger “bunk room” style tents at basecamp, but it is an added cost.

We have costed in the assistance of a local porter per 4 people to carry down the extra equipment and tents that we will be leaving on the Vacas side as we move up to Camps 2 and 3. Another porter will help bring the high camp down to the Horcones side after the summit day. Often the groups decide to pitch in to hire extra porters to lighten their personal loads.

These guys work really hard, and at altitude, so are limited to 20kg per carry. This means we will have to carry the remainder to equip and to remove each camp ourselves. See the notes on fitness.

Please bring all the gear listed if possible. There is no facility to rent from Alpine Guides.

You can buy and rent equipment in Mendoza we recommend “Shelter” Aconcagua Mountain (El Refugio Aconcagua), which is close to our accommodation. After the exchange rate, the prices are similar to shopping in NZ/AU.

Thirty days before the beginning of the expedition we will send general information such as hotel bookings, contact details, and other logistical data.